True coats reaching to the knee also take several forms. These are little used nowadays. The klj, made of twill or velvet, is tailored at the waist, where the flaring skirt is gathered; the straight sleeves are complete but open at the armpits. There are no buttons, but both sides of the straight front opening, the cuffs, and hem are trimmed with gold lace and a deep border of floral embroidery. The katibi corresponds to the pkn in having open sleeves with k, but closes above the flared skirt with a button at the waist, and may be trimmed with fur at the collar. Sometimes the ua, a coat with elbow-length sleeves, was worn; the baari was similar, but usually shorter, with no buttons, quilted inside, and often trimmed lavishly with gold lace and gilt embroidery. A lbbad was even shorter, reaching barely below the waist, with the rounded hip projections and side vents, short sleeves, and an open front tied at the waist; it was also quilted inside and richly trimmed. The emk is very similar, but lined with fur, whereas the krd, also fur-lined, is simply an open, sleeveless waistcoat. Woolen socks (jorab; Pers. jrb) are knitted with a characteristically sharp fold all round the foot, either ankle or calf length, and in a wide variety of colorful motifs. The typical footwear, before the advent of mass-produced shoes, was an open-heeled slipper (bamaq) with a sole in the shape of a figure 8, the front heavily embroidered or covered with beadwork ending in an upturned curl. Boots (uzun boaz km) had low heels and uppers of tooled leather or embroidered broadcloth. It is the headscarf (kalaay, Pers. kal), made from specially woven silks, that is the most persistent of traditional garments, sometimes worn over a low (6 cm) flat-topped skullcap (araqn), almost covered with gold embroidery, or alternatively a small bonnet (tsk). Formerly a tube-like hood (utqu) could be worn to cover both the head and plaits.